Back to the Berkshires-September 2021

I remember watching a movie called The Age of Innocence while living in Oregon in the 90s. The movie was all about New York Society during the Gilded age of the late 19th century. While the story was good, I knew nothing of that period or the lifestyles of the northeastern elite. After moving here and visiting the mansions in Newport, I became more acquainted with that era and learned that movie was based on a novel written by Edith Wharton. Wharton was a very popular author in the late 19th and early 20th century, kind of like America’s answer to Jane Austen. She and her husband owned a beautiful estate in the Berkshire mountains of western Massachusetts. It’s been on my list of places to visit for quite awhile now and finally we were able to make it happen. I decided to avoid the MassPike and instead took a scenic route along the northern border of the state. This made for a fairly stress free ride for Janet as the turnpike is often jammed and raises the blood pressure.

The Wharton estate is just outside the towns of Lenox and Stockbridge. Stockbridge was made famous by Norman Rockwell as the subject of his ideal winter town, and both of these towns are as picturesque as the painter imagined. Like the Castle in the Clouds, we started our journey in the carriage house with a short presentation on the life of Edith Wharton. I was really glad for this as it put the house and grounds into perspective and explained why it was different than many other houses of that era.

From the carriage house we journeyed down the wooded driveway to the main house. Peppered along the way were installations of art and interactive literature. Though we followed the trail backwards, it was fun to read a children’s book that was printed on sign boards throughout a path in the woods.

The house itself was on the smaller side of the scale from what we’ve seen in society homes. Ms. Wharton wrote a book on home decor and was noted as a minimalist in design. Her taste was reflected throughout the house and was quite the departure from the ostentatious nature of the Newport homes. She and her husband were not very close, and the marriage ended after a period of time. Since the estate belonged to him, she left New England and spent the remainder of her years in Paris. During her years of residence she entertained rarely and then only in small intimate gatherings. Her dining room table was small and reflected this fact. The library is probably the gem of the house as it contains many of her own books. This is remarkable as the house went through many owners before being purchased by the restoration society.

Outside, the gardens take center stage. A beautiful row of topiary trees line the promenade and direct visitors from one side to the other. On one end is a grotto-like area with a tranquil fountain perfect for reading or meditating. On the other end lies a beautifully manicured flower garden and pool reminiscent of a French palace.

Before leaving Lenox, we ate at an old inn that has probably been standing for 300 years. I love these places for their charm and character. The food wasn’t bad either!

We chose to go back the way we came which was nice as I had hoped to stop at the Yankee Candle Village on the way home. This is definitely a tourist stop. Hosting a maze of rooms filled with Yankee Candles and other home goods, this place was packed with all kinds of people. Though it says Yankee, and it’s located in New England, I felt as though I’d been transported straight to Branson, MO as it contained all that down home country aura so reminiscent of southern Missouri. The highlight for me was the Christmas rooms with the village displays. It must have made quite the impression as that was the only thing I chose to photograph.

What a day. The Wharton house was everything we’d hoped for, and the Yankee Candle Village was a been there done that moment. It’s fun to have a balance in our adventures. New England sure does provide plenty opportunities for both!

Leave a comment